Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
